Town small and very picturesque, with the usual winding alleys filled with cafes and tratorrias. Ferries bustled in and out all day taking tourists (mostly German) to and from other towns around the lake. Our hotel was one of the oldest buildings in the town and deliberately oldy-worldy, which grew on me after awhile. It was set right on the water and immediately next to the ferry port, which made it noisey during the day though you got used to this very quickly and it was fun to hang out the window and watch the hustle and bustle of it all. Food was pretty average but included drinks served with the meal as part of the price which is unusual and very good value.
We spent most of our days travelling by ferry around the other towns up the north end of the lake - Malcesne, Riva and Torbole. Malcesne is easily the most attractive, its imposing lakeside castle surrounded by a warren of narrow streets selling artwork and ceramics amid the usual tourist nonsense and Italian leather goods that nobody ever seems to buy. We went here twice, the second time on Fi’s birthday for lunch and a few too many drinks. You can walk from Torbole to Riva along the northern shoreline, which gives you a chance to watch all the German windsurfers doing there stuff.
We also did a trip to Milan which started in foul weather. Busy Saturday in the city with demonstrations and a political rally by the dreaded Berlescolli’s. It was also fashion week and innumerable stick-thin models strolled the trendy streets filled by impossibly expensive designer boutiques. Cathedral and Galleria spectacular and worth seeing but not much time to take in anything else. Found an arty, slightly bohemian area beyond the cathedral full of trendy galleries and restaurants that would have been fun to explore. Perhaps some other time.
All in all a great and very good value holiday. Italy never lets you down. Is there a more beautiful country in the world? I doubt it.
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